Tag Archives: holy grail

Birthday Dinner at Piccolo

26 Sep

For my birthday this year, my wonderful friends Ali and John took me out to a restaurant that I had been admiring from afar for pretty much its entire existence: Piccolo! I first encountered Chef Doug Flicker’s food at February’s Gastro Non Grata event, wherein he sent out an amazing pork meatball that totally threw everyone into a feeding frenzy.

But I had actually heard of him a lot earlier, from Jon Radle, a chef with whom I was interning in the winter of 2010. He said that Flicker was one of the best chefs out there, and that everyone could learn a lot from him. So I was just hysterical with anticipation when I finally sat down at Piccolo yesterday. Continue reading 

Dinner at Grand Cafe in Minneapolis

25 Oct

I don’t know if I’ve dropped this bomb yet, but I’m two weeks in on a stage at the Grand Cafe, which is a bistro in south Minneapolis. What that means is that I’m working on a volunteer basis in order to learn how to work in a restaurant kitchen. It’s been a really positive experience so far, and I’m glad to have this opportunity. In exchange for my labor, John, the chef de cuisine, invited me to have dinner at the cafe for free!

What can I say? The meal I had last night blew me away. As each course came out, I immediately noticed little things that I had played a part in: the shredded duck, julienned pickled peppers, little leaves of frisée. It was a great feeling. I’ve never been so proud. The supreme icing on the cake was a last round of vodka shots in the Grand kitchen with the chefs. Bliss.

I didn’t take pictures, but here’s my recollection of what we had (I scribbled these down last night when I was drunk so NO GUARANTEES):

ocean trout tartare w/ truffle oil on a house-made cracker
seared scallops on a squash puree
spicy shrimp w/ pickled peppers and cheesy grits (paired with Pabst Blue Ribbon!!!)
blue cheese tart and duck confit salad
ahi tuna w/ leeks/escarole/bacon and potato puree
duck breast w/ potato gnocchi
pumpkin creme brulee

_______’s General Store

12 Feb

Out of respect for the proprietor’s hatred of publicity, I will refrain from dropping his name in this post. Just know that eating at this restaurant is probably one of the most sincere experiences you will ever have in New York City. This guy just does not give a shit, and that is something I can really get down with.

Last month, I had the pleasure of eating there with Chris and my friend Parvoneh. The fact that they were both tourists was a good enough excuse to do crazy shit like wait in an hour-long line for brunch. The wait felt so long that when someone asked me what I was waiting for I forgot for a second. Totally worth it though, and here’s why:

CHEESEBURGER SOUP!

EGGS, BARBEQUE PULLED PORK, TOAST AND MACARONI AND CHEESE!

VEGAN SAUSAGE!

MACARONI AND CHEESE AND BLACKBERRY PANCAKES!

A HUGEASS PUMPKIN SHAKE!

Bam, motherfucker.

Vichyssoise Pasta

6 Aug

My project this summer has been to experiment with pasta sauces, and I haven’t had a really satisfactory result… until today! Tonight I made a sauce loosely based on vichyssoise, or chilled potato-and-leek soup.  I actually prefer the hot version of the soup, which is sort of heretical, I guess.  Does that disqualify it from being called “vichyssoise”?  Does it matter?  Culinary conventions tend to be somewhat strict, but you know what?  FUCK YOU, BITCHES, THIS IS VICHYSSOISE PASTA!!!

I was really surprised by how well this turned out, for being a completely ad-libbed dish.  I’m sure that the quality of the dish owed a lot to the ingredients, though: the leeks and pasta were organic and I grabbed the French fingerling potatoes from the Union Square farmers’ market just a few hours before.  Or maybe I’m just that good?  (Yeah okay.)  I guess you don’t actually have to use fingerling potatoes for this recipe, but I really liked the way the slices looked in the sauce.  Maybe I miss hotdog Spaghetti-Os, or this is some backward Freudian thing where slicing fingerling potatoes makes me feel empowered.

I had this with a glass of 2007 Paumanok Riesling, and subsequently broke the wineglass in the sink.  (Sorry mom!!!)

Vichyssoise Pasta

  • olive oil
  • butter
  • leeks, sliced
  • fingerling potatoes, sliced
  • heavy cream
  • chicken stock
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • linguini (I think it looks really nice, is all.)
  • shaved Parmesan, to garnish
  • shredded parsley, to garnish

1. Throw the olive oil and butter into a small sauce pot over medium heat.  Once it gets going, throw the potatoes in and let them sit for a few minutes.  Once they’re about halfway there, toss in the leeks and stir the whole thing around a little.

2. Start the water for the pasta now!  (Don’t forget the salt!)  Once the leeks and potatoes are tender, pour in some heavy cream and chicken stock.  Season it with lots of salt and pepper and let it all reduce for a bit, until you get the thickness you want.

3. Cook the pasta, and toss it with the sauce.  Throw the parsley and Parmesan on top, and eat that shit!

¡Carnitas!

1 Jun

Back during finals week, my good friend Tim and I made what could be one of the best meals we’ve ever had. I was cracked out from writing my seemingly endless stream of research papers and really couldn’t afford to take the time to make anything more complex than Easy Mac that day, but I felt like I had to make something good to save my sanity. A lot of the food that I ate that week was just plain wrong: miniature bags of Ruffles scavenged from random nooks, tortilla chips with American cheese melted on top, individual slices of bread sprinkled with nothing more than Maggi seasoning. The worst part was that all of my papers’ topics pertained to food; I tortured myself with colonial descriptions of traditional Native Mexican cuisine and full-color advertisements for WWI-era economical patriot dishes. Next semester I’ll write about something less stimulating, like Stalinism.

I copped the recipe from Cook’s Illustrated, and it’s some good shit. It’s definitely not as much work as it sounds. The result was an amazingly satisfying pick-me-up in the midst of a soul-crushing finals week, and it tasted even better when we were drunk! Incidentally, I would recommend pairing this with a Pinot Noir.

Carnitas (feeds two hungry college kids for two days)

  • 1 (4 lb.) boneless pork butt, fat cap trimmed to 1/8-inch thick
  • Table (or kosher) salt and ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 small onion, peeled and halved
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 lime, squeezed
  • 1 orange, halved and squeezed
  • 2 C water
  • Tortillas, lime wedges, minced white onion and fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Combine pork, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, cumin, onion halves, bay leaves, oregano, lime juice, and water in large Dutch over (liquid should just barely cover meat). Juice orange into medium bowl and remove any seeds (you should have about 1/2 cup of juice). Add juice and spent orange halves to pot. Bring mixture to simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover pot and transfer to over; cook until meat is soft and falls apart when prodded with fork, about 2 hours, flipping pieces of meat once during cooking.

2. Remove pot from oven and turn oven to broil. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl; remove orange halves, onion and bay leaves from cooking liquid and discard (do not skim fat from liquid). Place pot over high heat (use caution, as handles will be very hot) and simmer liquid, stirring frequently, until thick and syrupy (heatsafe spatula should leave wide trail when dragged through glaze), 8 to 12 minutes. You should have about 1 cup reduced liquid.

3. Using two forks, pull each piece of pork in half. Fold in reduced liquid; season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread pork in even layer on wire rack set inside rimmed baking sheet or on broiler pan (meat should cover almost entire surface of rack or broiler pan). Place baking sheet on lower-middle rack and broil until top of meat is well browned (but not charred) and edges are slightly crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, flip pieces of meat and continue to broil until top is well browned and edges are slightly crisp, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Serve carnitas immediately after cooking in warm tortillas and with garnishes.

Empanadarama!

5 Dec

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuI know that I’ve written about empanadas before, but I just wanted to let you all in on a little secret: The best thing that I have ever eaten was a chicken empanada from Casa Blanca, a Mexican-Peruvian place on Vermont Ave. NW in Washington D.C.  Hooooly fucking shit, y’all.  Goddamn.I honestly wasn’t expecting to be hit by a freight train of delicious mojo when I bought these.  Casa Blanca was a somewhat unappreciated eating establishment at my workplace, and each empanada was a mere $1.25.  To even get them, I had to go all the way to the back and submit my order to an old guy in a wifebeater that was a greasy yellow around the edges.  All I could do while I waited was stare at all of the crazy Peruvian kitsch scattered around the counter: girly calendars, gross tapestries and bull horns.  What the hell, I was broke.  Retreating to an unoccupied row of newspaper vendors, I thought, okay, these will at least get me through the next two hours.My first bite was a revelation, to say the least.  It was as if I were the enlightened prisoner in Plato’s allegory of the cave, having seen the truth behind the shadows on the wall.  The dough used in the empanadas was the true, perfect dough that I had been denied my whole life.  The filling inside was made of really moist chicken that had been stewed, plus half a boiled egg and — for an insane, yet oddly fitting flavor — half of a red olive.After I finished it I had to sit for a while and think hard about my life.Damn, that shit was dope.

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