The Compassionate Carnivore and Slow Food

17 Sep

carnivore

I recently finished reading The Compassionate Carnivore by Catherine Friend — it’s an easily digestible memoir/self-help/environmental activist book centered on American meat consumption. Friend and her partner (FARM LESBIANS!!!) own and operate a sheep farm in Zumbrota, MN using sustainable practices, such as pasture rotation and unconfined lambing.

As a former vegetarian, I really had to do a lot of soul-searching when I decided to eat meat again. In Carnivore, Catherine Friend articulates that struggle really well, and presents a persuasive argument for being a conscientious omnivore over ethical vegetarianism. This summer I had to live right next to animals that  I was going to eat — their imminent demise became a confrontation that I had to work through. However, it was also reassuring: I knew what the animals had eaten, the conditions in which they lived and the way their fur or feathers felt to the touch. I could  be thankful when I finally prepared and consumed their meat, and I could feel assured that they lived lives that many others of their kind  could not. Knowing that I’m eating Daisy and Bessie is, morbidly, refreshing.

Because the lives of meat livestock are always cut short  by violence, I think that it’s important for consumers to ensure  that the animals they eat didn’t suffer at the end. Most people have probably read  Fast Food Nation, so you know what I’m talking about. I think reconciling oneself with the inevitable violence of food consumption is essential to appreciating good food. Friend offers up an anecdote of a chef who took his team out to a farm to see a goat slaughter; after the event, kitchen waste was drastically reduced. Even vegetables require some amount of violence to grow: wild animals are routinely killed off by farmers to protect vegetables that also thrive on dead animal compost.

More power to you vegetarians, but the ethical argument just doesn’t jive with me. To me, (and this relates to a quote I read by Van Jones, the former green jobs “czar” of the Obama administration) the model of vegetarianism as a critique or attack on the meat industry does much less good than Friend’s reconstructive approach. Compassionate carnivory is a creative solution to the problem of factory farming and cruel slaughterhouse practices that may result in real change. Giving your money to a livestock farmer whose name you know is a step toward that change. Vegans and vegetarians are, in a sense, leaving the bargaining table to the consumers who don’t care. Personally, I would rather help humane farmers and their philosophies thrive. If I’m not giving them my  business, I’d just be leaving all the meat consumption to Tyson and Smithfield! They would have no motivation to change their practices without competition. The real deal is that many, many people eat meat without caring where or how the animals died. Luckily, The Compassionate Carnivore has been gaining popularity in the U.S., and maybe more people will come around.

The farm interns all went down to the Elbow Lake library last week to meet Friend, who was doing a reading there. She’s the more reticent half of the couple, and she recounted her initial ambivalence toward farming in an earlier book called Hit By a Farm. The most striking part of the event actually occurred after she spoke (though she was interesting in her own right), when the farmers present in the room (library basement) were called upon to introduce themselves and their work. I also got my book signed, and Friend and I talked about how there needs to be a queer farmers’ union! All in all, a very cute happening.

Amanda (our coworker), Chris and I met Melissa (Friend’s partner) at a Slow Food Minnesota event on the Callister chicken farm this past weekend. Melissa drew us a diagram of a ewe’s uterus/eweterus in the dirt and made a llama face at us. Chris frightened a barn of Poulet Rouge Fermier chickens and an Italian chef cried for his mother. Amazing.

I would love to hear counterarguments to this whole meat thing, though. Any vegans/vegetarians want to throw any out there?

5 Responses to “The Compassionate Carnivore and Slow Food”

  1. aloysius October 7, 2009 at 1:53 am #

    interesting commentary. Can you lend me your book? We do not have that here in third world philippines. hoping for your consideration. thnx.

  2. daniel November 3, 2009 at 9:05 pm #

    when were you vegetarian?

    d

    • Vy November 5, 2009 at 12:16 pm #

      high school dawg

  3. daniel November 3, 2009 at 9:15 pm #

    sorry to post twice in a row (and so quickly!), but i have to respond to your ethical argument; veganism/vegetarianism are, yes, moves in opposition to the meat industry (critique suggests a desire to reform. this isn’t it at all). but they’re also, more importantly, refusals to participate in and support a system of unnecessary violence. i mean, isn’t it a little silly to say, “oh, it’s ok to kill them as long as they’re treated well”? humane treatment is better, but not nearly enough. only abolition is enough, and that’s not going to happen by people buying only happy meat. maybe you will find some of the posts on this site interesting: http://www.abolitionistapproach.com/

    perhaps off topic, but veganism is more important than buying locally w/r/t climate change: http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn13741

    • Vy November 6, 2009 at 5:54 pm #

      I’m going to address your points backwards, if that’s ok. I am definitely aware that cows (and rice paddies, for that matter: http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=rice-paddy-methane-emissi) are fucking insane emitters of methane gas. So yes, reducing your beef or dairy intake would help with that matter. But so would reducing your consumption of rice, which is kind of integral to the diets of most vegans/vegetarians.

      So what to do? I think all anyone can ask is for people to do what they can. If that means buying locally to reduce carbon emissions or eschewing beef to reduce methane emissions.

      To address your first point, I don’t think it’s silly at all to vouch for humane treatment of animals. I really believe that Friend’s point about pushing for reform is valid, because meat producers obviously don’t give a damn about vegetarians. They’re just, frankly, not a huge population in America. In the longterm, I see more use in easing people into eating humanely raised animals as an important step toward the reduction of meat and dairy consumption. And even that seems pretty far-off.

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